Adult Cats in Shelters: Give Them Hope

If you have ever been to an animal shelter, you have probably seen a sad sight: dozens of adult cats desperate for homes, most of which have little chance of getting out.

The American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals states that every year, about 5 to 7 million pets enter the animal shelter system, of which more than half are cats. Unfortunately, approximately 70% of those cats are euthanized simply because no one wants them, and most shelters don’t have the funds to board them for more than a few weeks.

Why aren’t these cats getting homes?

Supply vs. demand
 
Even though more animals are being spayed or neutered, 75% of animals coming into the shelter are still intact. One unspayed cat can produce many litters of kittens over the years, and those litters produce their own litters. The supply of cats is simply too large.

Michael Moyer, VMD, AAHA president, Rosenthal director and adjunct associate professor of Shelter Animal Medicine at the University of Pennsylvania School of Veterinary Medicine, says, “There are more [cats] heading into shelters than there are people going to shelters to adopt, or than are being displayed off-site from shelters to get adopted.”

The rate of intake of adult cats at shelters is significantly higher than the rate of adoption, and in spring, when the “kitten season” begins, the margin increases alarmingly. When given the opportunity to adopt a cute little kitten, people tend to ignore the older cats.

The American Humane Association has dubbed June “Adopt a Cat Month”—June has the lowest rate of adoption from shelters, therefore the highest rate of euthanasia. Kittens usually go fast, but unfortunately, the majority of shelter cats are over 5 years old. Some are “boring” looking, like tabbies or black cats, and others are part of a bonded pair, which means they would be miserable without their friend. Some have easily remedied medical conditions, while others aren’t well socialized. These cats stand no chance against the puppies, kittens and dogs in the shelters.

Location, location, location
 
According to the Humane Society of the United States, 33% of Americans have at least one cat. Of that number, only 21% were adopted from animal shelters. The rest came from a hodgepodge of sources: friends, family, coworkers, wandering strays or unplanned litters of kittens. Because people are getting cats from these other sources, they don’t turn to the shelter for adoption.

Part of the problem has to do with the shelters themselves. Because of city noise regulations, most shelters are located in industrial or other “undesirable” neighborhoods. People often don’t even know there’s a shelter in their area. “Most shelters are not in highly desirable foot-traffic neighborhoods,” Moyer says. Also, cities frequently lack the funds to modernize shelters, so walking through them can be dismal.

Decreasing odds
 
Numbers aren’t the only reason for low shelter adoptions. The shelter environment, specifically the cage, can dramatically decrease a cat’s odds of being adopted. The shelter is a loud, scary place, and with no consistent or regular exercise, cats can become depressed and fearful.

Cats need about 9 square feet to be comfortable, but shelter kennels are smaller than that. The animals need vertical space for jumping and horizontal space for play and sleep. When they are forced to live in cages, they have some serious adjusting to do. It may take up to 5 weeks for a cat to feel comfortable in a new environment, but most shelters aren’t able to keep them that long.

Illona Rodan, DVM, DABVP and founder of the Cat Care Clinic in Madison, Wis., says, “Cats are fearful in unfamiliar environments, and fearful cats tend to hide or flee. If caged, they will most likely hide in the back of the cage, as far away as possible in an attempt to protect themselves. To potential adopters, these cats appear unfriendly and undesirable.”

Ideal companions
 
With litters of cute kittens prancing around, who would want to adopt an older cat? Smart people! With adult cats, what you see is usually what you get. You may have to look a little harder, past the fearfulness, but, as Rodan says, “Adopting an adult cat allows one to know the personality you are getting.”

Older cats, especially in pairs, are also great for seniors and people who don’t want a huge time commitment. “Kittens require a lot of time and energy, and are usually more costly to care for than an adult cat,” says Rodan. Adults are more well-adjusted to life, and pairs keep each other company.

But more than anything else, adult cats are grateful. “Adult cats that find their way into homes can be the most loving pets of all—perhaps they know how lucky they are to have found a loving and caring home,” Rodan says.

How you can help
 
If you are thinking of adopting a cat, visit your local shelter first. Sure, your coworker might need a new home for her cat, or your neighbor might have a litter in the back yard, but those cats are “safe,” meaning they aren’t in immediate risk of being euthanized.

You can also spread the word in your community that adult cats in shelters need homes, too, and encourage people to visit their shelter first, either to adopt or to volunteer. “More adoptions is what shelters need, by whatever means can be found within that particular community,” says Moyer. “There is a role for vets, for shelters and for the community to step in and make a better outcome possible for cats.”

And, you can help with prevention. In the words of Bob Barker, “Help control the pet population. Have your pets spayed or neutered.” And encourage others to do the same.

This article originally appeared in PetsMatter May / June 2012, published by the American Animal Hospital Association. Copyright © 2012 AAHA.

Avoiding Injury: Interpreting Feline Aggression

A Message from Norfolk Dog & Cat Hospital

The team at Norfolk Dog & Cat Hospital is committed to educating pet owners about all aspects of pet care and behavior! We thought this article was a very helpful bit of information for pet owners and we'd like to share it with you. Please ask us if you have any questions or concerns about your pet's behavior, and we'll be glad to help you. 

Avoiding Injury: Interpreting Feline Aggression

Despite centuries of sharing our lives and homes with cats, many pet owners know very little about interpreting signs of anger, fear or aggression in these creatures. The typical “Halloween cat” posture (arched back, raised fur, ears back, hissing) clearly indicates fear and/or aggression, but cats also use other postures and behaviors that are subtle and easily missed. Since a hostile encounter with a cat at some time is almost inevitable, a few tips can help you avoid injury if you find yourself in such a situation.

What are the Signs of Aggression in Cats?

Fortunately, most cats exhibit some sort of outward sign when they are unhappy or angry about something. Unfortunately, some of these signs can be very subtle and difficult to interpret, including:

• Avoiding eye contact, or staring directly at you
• Dilated pupils
• Head held down
• Sharply swishing the tail back and forth
• Raised fur along the neck, back and tail
• Puffing up the tail
• Ears flattened against head or held back
• Hissing, growling

In some cases, the signs of trouble may occur very suddenly and without apparent warning. For example, petting-evoked aggression occurs when you are petting a cat (usually while the cat is on your lap) and the cat seems to be enjoying the interaction, but then suddenly strikes out at or bites you. The most logical explanation for this behavior is that some cats have a limited tolerance for being petted, so the best way to avoid this problem is to stop petting before that limit is reached. Unfortunately, the signs preceding the strike or bite may be very subtle—flicking the tail or ear may be the only indication of a problem. Understanding what those behaviors mean may save you from being injured.

What To Do

• When in doubt, create distance. If the cat is trying to get away from you, let it—as long as you can do this safely. If you are pursuing or restraining the cat in any way, stop. If a cat is fearful or aggressive, its natural response is usually to get away from you. As long as it can do that, the situation may not progress any further. Always leave a cat a way to escape a situation. Generally, if the cat can get away, it is less likely to attack or become more aggressive.
• Keep your movements slow and your voice soft. The cat is faster than you. Sudden movements or loud noises (like shouting) will startle a cat that is already afraid or annoy a cat that is already irritated.
• Consult your veterinarian. Painful conditions, hormonal influences or other medical issues may cause your cat to be aggressive. Relieving these problems may help eliminate the behavior.
• Try to learn what the cat likes or doesn’t like. Some cats like to be picked up and held, but others absolutely refuse to accept this. This can seem contradictory when the same cat that doesn’t want to be picked up wants to be in your lap if you are sitting down. Often, interacting with cats involves negotiation—if picking up the cat is not going to work, don’t do it.
• Educate children. Without meaning to, children can be rough with cats or display other behaviors that may cause a cat to become fearful or aggressive toward them. Some children need to be shown how to play gently with a cat. Very young children may also pursue or restrain a cat that is trying to get away from them or pick up a cat that resents being picked up. These activities should be discouraged.
• Introduce new pets slowly and under controlled situations. If your cat is meeting another animal (whether a dog or another cat), try to have at least one of them on a leash. If a fight breaks out, the combatants can be pulled apart without having to reach into the fight to separate them. Also, don’t be surprised if it takes your cat a long time to accept a new pet. As long as the two pets can get away from one another and don’t have to compete for food or affection, fights can generally be avoided.

What Not to Do

• Never pursue a cat that is trying to get away from you. It is already frightened; don't make it feel threatened.
• Don’t approach strange cats. If you must interact with them, let them approach you. If the cat is injured or in pain, it may be more likely to be aggressive, so if you have to pick the cat up to help it, use a towel or other means to protect yourself.
• Don’t underestimate a cat’s ability to hurt you. Yes, cats are small, but don’t think that their small size means they are not dangerous. Even a kitten can seriously injure you. Cats are blessed with incredible speed and flexibility. Unless they are declawed, all four feet are weapons, as is a mouth full of sharp teeth. Cat scratches and bites can transmit bacteria that lead to cat scratch fever, a disease with flu-like symptoms. Cat bites can also result in infection and severe tissue swelling. Always use caution when dealing with a cat you don’t know, even if the cat belongs to a friend or relative. 

This article originally appeared in PetsMatter November / December, published by the American Animal Hospital Association. Copyright © 2012 AAHA.

Pet Owners Warned About Buying Drugs Online

The team at Dog and Cat Hospital of Norfolk is committed to educating our clients about the basics of pet care, that's why we provide articles to you to keep you informed about what's happening in the pet care world. We encourage you to read the following article, and please contact our team if you have questions. We'll be glad to help!

Pet Owners Warned About Buying Drugs Online

The U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) issued a warning to pet owners about buying drugs online on Dec. 14, 2007. It is safest, experts say, to work with veterinarians to obtain drugs for your pets. In Canada, the Veterinary Drugs Directorate monitors and regulates animal drugs. The FDA warning was prompted by increased concern about the quality of drugs that can be obtained online, especially from foreign companies that may sell products that are not regulated by the government.

Advertisements like: "Discount pet drugs — no prescription required" may appeal to pet owners surfing the Web, but FDA experts say it can be risky to buy drugs online from sites that tout this message and others like it.

Because drugs influence a pet’s health, medical experts urge consumers to work closely with veterinarians to obtain prescriptions and purchase medicine.

When drugs are purchased through veterinarians, doses are measured carefully for each pet, and pet owners can rest assured that the product has been stored properly to maintain purity. Government investigations have found that some companies advertising drugs online sell expired drugs.

To keep pets safe and healthy, talk with your veterinary team about the drugs you buy.


Originally published by Healthy Pet.
 

National Severe Weather Preparedness Week

This week is National Severe Weather Preparedness Week, a great time to prepare your family for potential disasters! As your prepare your family survival kit, be sure to include your pet! If you have questions about what your pet would need in the event of a disaster or evacuation, please let us know!

10 “People” Foods for Dogs

As a responsible and informed dog lover, you probably know that too much “people food” can make your dog ill or overweight, but there are some human foods that can be safely added to your dog’s meals in moderation to give a nutritional boost to Queenie’s diet and add a bit of variety to her food bowl. Just remember: any additions to your dog’s meals shouldn’t comprise more than 25 percent of her weekly caloric requirement.

1. Yogurt is a good source of available calcium and protein. When choosing yogurt, pick one that has live active bacteria and no sugars or artificial sweeteners. The active bacteria may act as probiotics. If your pooch is pudgy, make sure that you pick fat-free yogurt but not one that contains fat substitutes (e.g., Simplesse or Olestra). Frozen yogurt is a nice summer treat for dogs.

2. Flax seed (ground or oil) is a good source of omega-3 fatty acids, which are essential fatty acids that are good for skin and coat. Whole flax seeds are best if ground right before feeding as this type of fat can go rancid quickly. Flax seed can also be added to your dog’s diet as a source of fibre. Flax oil is a more concentrated form of omega- 3 fatty acids without the fibre. Make sure that you store the oil or seeds in the fridge in an air tight dark container.

3. Salmon is a fatty fish which is also a good source of omega- 3 fatty acids. These fats support the immune system and can be beneficial for skin and coat health. There has also been some indication that they may benefit dogs with allergies. You can feed salmon or salmon oil. If feeding salmon, make sure it’s cooked before serving, as raw salmon can carry a parasite that can make your dog sick.

4. Pumpkin is a good source of fibre and beta carotene (a source of vitamin A). Dogs need fibre in their diet. The current trend is towards highly digestible diets that lower stool volume and this is not necessarily a good thing. Keeping the GI tract moving helps keep the cells lining the gut healthy.

5. Sweet potatoes are another source of dietary fibre and contain vitamin B6, vitamin C, beta carotene, and manganese. Sweet potatoes are great sliced and dehydrated as a chewy treat for your dog. There are so many dog treats on the market that we often overlook the simple, healthy, and reasonably priced treats available at our grocery store.

6. Green beans are a good source of plant fibre, vitamin K, vitamin C, and manganese. If your dog has a tendency to put on weight, then replacing some of her regular food with green beans is a great low calorie way to fill her up and help her maintain a healthy weight. Many dogs enjoy green beans frozen.

7. Eggs are a great source of very digestible protein, riboflavin, and selenium. For some dogs that are prone to digestive upset, eggs can give them a little protein boost. Adding eggs to your dog’s food is a healthy treat. Make sure to use cooked whole egg, as raw egg whites can cause biotin deficiency. If you do a lot of training with your dog, consider taking cooked eggs to your next class as training treats.

8. Brewer’s yeast is the yeast that’s left over from making alcohol. Dogs seem to really enjoy the tangy taste of brewer’s yeast. It’s full of B vitamins which are good for skin, coat, and carbohydrate metabolism. Make sure you’re using brewer’s yeast (available at health food stores), not baking yeast which will make your dog sick. Brewer’s yeast can spice up your dog’s appetite. Just sprinkle a little on the food of a picky eater and watch her dive into her food.

9. Apples are wonderful crunchy treats for your dog. Apples with the skin on are full of plant chemicals (phytonutrients) that are thought to be protective against some types of cancer in humans. They are a source of vitamins A and C and fibre. Apple seeds, however, contain cyanide so your dog should not be allowed to eat the core. Though the effects of a few apple seeds will likely not harm your dog, the deleterious effects can accumulate over time if allowed to eat apple seeds regularly.

10. Oatmeal is a good source of soluble fibre. This can be beneficial for some older dogs that may have trouble maintaining bowel regularity. Oatmeal is also an alternative source of grain for dogs that are allergic to wheat. It can be fed in conjunction with probiotics to enhance their function. Keep in mind oatmeal should always be fed cooked and plain with no sugar or flavouring. As always, check with your veterinarian before making any major changes to your dog’s diet, especially if they are on any medications. Upsetting the vitamin and mineral balances in your dog’s diet can have negative effects on your dog’s health and some medications interact badly with some nutrients. The aim of most dog owners is to give their dogs the best diet possible. Good nutrition coupled with a health care program may result in extending your dog’s life by as much as 15 percent. The suggestions above are not meant to replace your dog’s normal, balanced diet. Rather, they are ideas for alternative treats or for adding a little variety to your dog’s meals.

Originally published in Modern Dog Magazine.